Category: Africa

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Singita – Place of Miracles

Our scheduled departure time was at noon, so we managed to get in one last morning drive. We didn’t see a whole lot of game, but it was a good time to sit in the open-air vehicles and reflect on the past two and a half weeks and what an incredible trip it has been.

As for our last camp: Singitia Lebombo was wonderful. The word ‘Singitia’ means “Place of Miracles” and while Singita owns several lodges, we selfishly feel that our lodge should be the one the saying refers to. The staff – from housekeepers to rangers and everything in between, all made sure that our visit was something we will treasure for years, but also a place we look forward to revisit.

Now we’re back on Federal Air, who so often have transported us within smaller airports in Africa. They are flying us from Singita Lebombo’s airport to Johannesburg. From here Adrian and Penny will fly to Durban to spend a few days with Penny’s sister Patty and her husband Bernard. The rest of the group is leaving Johannesburg for Dubai and later San Francisco at seven o’clock tonight.

Our trip has been fantastic, and it’s always with a combination of happiness and sadness that we leave Africa. We are very lucky to have seen such extraordinary places and that we as a family can travel so well together. 

Good dish!

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Last night in Africa

The morning drive on July 5 gave sight to a beautiful rhino. We have found such respect for this animal over the years, and feel incredibly sad that to this day it is being hunted for its horn. On average 1.5 rhinos are killed a day, and it’s a constant game of cat and mouse to try to secure them from poachers. What seems to be most effective is to move them to hard to reach areas, which are far away from Kruger. With Mozambique so close to Kruger, these animals are high on the danger list and several are gone already. It’s a complex problem and there are high sums of money driving the risk the poachers take.

Most of what we saw on the morning and afternoon drive were things we had already been lucky to encounter, but we did come across a pack of five lions including an eight-months old cub. They were very lazy and were enjoying dozing off in the sun. We let them sleep before their yawns became contagious.

Some of the downtime was used to teach our ranger about the word “dish”. It was very successful and we worry about the next group he is taking out, as he is likely to say “there’s some dish over there” or “good dish” when leaving a great viewing spot. We know… it would take a lot of time to explain and it’s a terrible inside joke started by John.

During the afternoon drive the kids went to the local school and did art projects, but later joined everyone else for sundowner in their own vehicle. John had brought a bit of lighting equipment from California and shot family portraits in the sunset. Maybe the Christmas card photo is already secured…? If the pictures don’t turn out alright, it’s certainly not because of the setting.

We tried to forget that it was our last night together – and at this beautiful location. Some also tried to forget that we had not seen the elusive leopard despite setting out to find one, often crossing long distances. It therefore almost felt ironic that a leopard was spotted close to camp in the early evening. We all drove straight home hoping to get a glimpse. All got to see it and could not believe how big of a fellow he was. At the time we saw it, the sky was pitch black, but Mr. leopard didn’t seem to mind that the tracker used a flashlight to light up the grassy area where it was resting. It was great to see leopard for more than the one second some of the group got to see in Zimbabwe.

Dinner took place outside and we enjoyed having the rangers join us. It happens at some lodges, and it’s nice to relax with them and talk about something other than wildlife and nature.  During dinner Sarah, Olivia and Chris got up to thank Adrian and Penny for their incredible generosity – obviously on behalf of all of us. The staff surprised them with birthday cakes – one each – accompanied by the local singing and dancing around the open fire pit. As usual the dancers in the family couldn’t resist joining and tried to follow both steps and words.

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In Search of the White Lion

The Singita vehicles held only six people, so before we left camp at 6:30 a.m., our group got split into four Land Rovers.  We had been warned that it would be quite cold on our drives, but we all felt warmer – or maybe less cold – than on previous drives. There was a bit of a cloud cover to hold on to the heat – maybe that helped. The warm water bottle and the blankets certainly did.

We had hardly left the Lebombo Lodge before we saw what seemed like an endless stream of quelea. Little known to many of us, this is the most prolific bird in the world – they even outnumber chickens. They flew by us in numbers surely in the 100’s of thousands and sometimes so close that we could feel the movement they made in the air. We saw them on three occasions and were at times certain it was the same birds just flying around us in the circle.

Singita recently posted a picture on Instagram of a white lion, and we were initially sad to hear that it had likely been chased out of the concession by other lions. We continued to look for it for two days, but couldn’t help feel a bit sad that so many people incl. day visitors to Kruger National Park were chasing a glimpse of the poor lion. Some of the rangers were worried that the color of its fur would make it a target for illegal hunting and so, while we were disappointed not seeing it, we also felt good about giving it a bit of rest and focused on something else.

There was plenty more to see. The elephants all seemed very calm compared to Matetsi, and couldn’t be bothered when we stopped to watch them eat or drink. The giraffes were also calm and even the zebras seemed less eager to run away than usual.

The morning drive included a walk on the river bank from where we watched both crocodiles and hippo. Later, we were lucky to stumble across three very well-fed lions and got some great pictures as they started to slowly move across the yellow grass.

Back at camp, most decided to skip breakfast and instead meet for lunch. We were served a legendary tapas-style lunch with eight different types of food and some soon felt like the three lions mentioned earlier…  David and Sandy decided to walk it off with a guided bush walk.

The kids stayed behind when it was time for the afternoon game drive. They instead had fun in the pool and later played monopoly. The rest of the group met for sundowners at a beautiful waterhole where the hippos were slowly gathering before making it up on land to feed on the grass during the night.

We got back to camp around 6:30 and listened as one of the rangers, Blaine, who took us through the history of South Africa and some of the neighboring countries. It remains very hard to understand just how much unrest the area has seen over the years, but Blaine remained optimistic for the future of the country. Adrian joined in at the end and talked and entertained us with memories of the country as it had been experienced by him, Penny and their four children.

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From Zimbabwe to South Africa via Zambia

David, Olivia, and John decided to leave the packing until later and left at 6:15 a.m. to see the Zimbabwean sunrise one last time. Few things compare to seeing that big African orange sun come over a hill ridge bringing a clean slate and a promise of a great day. Truly worth the ride in the nippy morning air.

Breakfast and packing was done by 9:00 and we departed Matetsi River Lodge for the last time. There were many people to hug and whom to say “See you next time”. The staff really was wonderful, and it was a privilege to stay at the Lodge and be so well taken care of. Maybe the staff felt the same way – some ran alongside our bus as we left, and every time we thought we’d left the staff behind, they’d pop up from somewhere else bringing a smile to our lips.

The transfer from Matetsi was fairly smooth all things considered, but we did have to unload all our luggage and change bus on the Zimbabwe/Zambia border. The only reason we had to cross the border into Zambia, was to catch a commercial flight to Kruger National Park. The Zambia border control still insisted on selling us visas despite the fact that we would be gone less than a couple of hours later. Cost: $750. Cash only… Nick wondered if we could pay with one of the 50 Billion Dollar(!) bills that street sellers were trying to sell to us and if the immigration office would have change for 50 Billion dollars…

We arrived well in time for our South African Airways flight from Livingstone International Airport. The kids devoured what could be ordered from the concession stand – the chicken sandwich was declared the winner of all things ordered. John and Olivia tried to find a lounge where complimentary drink could be had. This turned out to be a bit of a challenge, but eventually it was found, very well-hidden behind four completely empty and rather large lounge rooms. They stocked up on refreshments and for the second time the Priority Pass membership equaled free soft drinks and Wi-Fi.

It was critical that we left Livingstone Airport on time so that we would arrive at Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport no later than 3:45. The is a strict rule in Kruger National Park, that cars cannot be on the road after 6:00 p.m., so counting backwards we would have to leave Mpumalanga by 4:00 p.m. given that the last flight was one hour long followed by a drive of similar duration. It all worked out perfectly and the many combined hours spent worrying where we would sleep if we got stuck in Nelspruit, turned out to be wasted – luckily so.

The drive from Kruger Airport to the Singita Lodge revealed many different animal species and a beautiful sunset. But arriving at the Singita Lebombo Lodge was something that we will probably never forget. Walking into the reception area was amazing with its stunning architecture and views of the nearby mountains, river and rooms. The lit pool looked very tempting and in general these lodges take such a beautiful presence at night with the way they incorporate light into the overall presence- often using candles, lanterns and open fire. We were all taken back by the beauty of the place and stood for a moment just to enjoy and appreciate just how lucky we were to call this place home for the next three nights.

After seeing our beautiful rooms, it was time to sit down for dinner. The kids with their saved-up energy were served in the entertainment room, and the teens got their own table. As it always happens on safari trips we’ve been fed delicious food at the lodges, but once the taste buds sprang into action, many of us agreed that this was the very best meal we had had on our trip. The open kitchen was a nice addition, allowing us to watch the chefs prepare the meals. The wine selection did not disappoint and the bartender, John, whipped up tasty drinks for those in the mood for an aperitif. All-in-all this was an incredible start and we went to bed excited of what the areas would look like at sunrise.

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Last Night in Zimbabwe – for Now…

With the fairly sparse number of sightings we had the previous mornings, it was time for a different approach. Thinking was that the cold winter temperatures made the animals sleep in, so a later start should – in theory at least – let us see more game. 

As such, we met for breakfast at 8:30, and left at 9:30. One vehicle left for the south of the park in hope to see the dark sable antelope. (Spoiler alert – at time of writing it remains unseen by us.) The other vehicle stayed around camp looking for lion and and leopard. None of these got found, but there were nice sightings of elephants, giraffe, zebra and kudo.

The second vehicle came back to camp 1:30. John decided to drive back to the falls, now that he knew which spots were safe to use with a regular camera. There was still a lot of rain and mist in the air, but some great shots were capture at a destination we may never revisit. Not because we don’t want to, but the bucket list is still long.

The first vehicle came back at 2:30. With a bit of lunch or quick siesta it was time to leave for the afternoon game drive. John and the (other) kids joined them at 5:00 for sundowners in front of a waterhole that provided liquid to a couple of elephants as we watched.

It was – sadly – our last night at Matetsi. The staff had prepared a beautiful dinner at the boma, and entertained the family with some history of Zimbabwe. Adrian filled in the blanks as it related to the family, and it was great to sit under the stars and learn about the place we had called home these past five days. The dinner buffet of local dishes was great but the real highlight was the continued infectious dancing that soon had most circling the large fire pit. Drums helped make sure the beat was never lost, and many family members danced until they were almost out of breath. 

As often we grow close with the staff and personal friendships are formed. Sure, it’s easy to stay connected via the cloud these days, but time and time again we have found that nothing beats the original and real social interactivity. Although no-one wanted to think about it, there were sad goodbyes waiting around the corner.

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Breathtaking Victoria Falls

First day of July and a day that was mostly spent at the Victoria Falls. We did start out with a morning drive, but most had their thoughts on the adrenalin-rushing activities they had signed up for at the falls. 

Departure from camp was at 11:00 and it took almost and hour before we were at the entrance. The guides offered ponchos, umbrellas and waterproof phone pounces in participation of the rain and sprays of water that comes with a visit to the falls, and while it started pretty dry, some of us got completely drenched and gave up trying to stay a little bit dry. It was no big deal – the weather was warm, and it never became an issue. 

The Victoria Falls were breathtaking and the 16 viewpoints each offered different views that all brought “ooohs” and “aaahs”. We also got a close-up view of the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe from where Jilly would later let a bungee cord prevent her from falling head-first into the Zambezi river. 

Eleven family members signed up for either gorge swing, bungee jump, or zip-lining; which is how the time between 2 and 4 was passed. All of them seems to defy what any human should be doing, but all had fun and agreed that if you were ever going to do any of these things, then Victoria Falls was the place to do it. Out of respect for parents and grandparents, we will not post any pictures 😉

The afternoon brought a lovely reunion with many of the local family members. All-in-all we ended up being 34 for high tea at the famous Victoria Falls Hotel, from where the famous “Dr. Livingstone, I presume” saying originated. Whether is was the first time connections were made, or it was a welcome chance to catch us since the last visit, the afternoon was spent with much laughter and tales from African, Australia, and California. Good times!

The activities, walking, and playing with cousins took its toll on the group, and dinner at camp was with a little smaller group than usual. We agreed to skip the early morning drive and get a good night rest. (See July 2.)

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Game Drives in Zimbabwe

Hoping to see a bit more game in the morning, one vehicle set out for the southern part of the AndBeyond concession. No joy – the animals hid well and the favorite sighting ending up being that of a baby zebra and having morning coffee on a hill overlook the area that previously were the grounds of the AndBeyond lodge. 

After breakfast John, Olivia, Chris, Kara, Sandy, David, Sarah, Robert, Adriana and Penny went on the Zambezi river in what’s is known as Canadian canoes. Two-seaters with an extra seat for the guy paddling. Such a nice way to experience the natural border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. They spotted a few crocodiles and a water monitor lizard that decided to jump from its branch and back in the water only a few feet away from Sarah’s canoe. 

The afternoon was spent relaxing. We met at 3:30 to enjoy tea and left at 4:00 for the pontoon boats that would take us all up and down the river. We split into two groups – 10 on each boat – and started slowly drifting. Luckily away from the Victoria Falls. We were very lucky that a heard of elephants got thirsty and came down to the river bank to consume about a 100 liter of water each. A tiny baby elephant stole the highlight but any elephant is worth watching in its natural habitat. Even the skittish ones that sometimes made sure we knew who was the rightful habitant of the area. The river cruise ended with the sighting of one – maybe two – hippos, although they left most of their good looks under water.

Dinner was served in the wine cellar at the lodge. A perfect combination of wine, comfortable seating and even exhibits of old toys. The kids were entertained in the upstairs TV room and watched Disney Channel while consuming burgers.

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Johnnie Cake

For most of us coffee was served with a wake-up call at 6:00 a.m. The rooms had a built-in butler’s closet so the tray with coffee and crunchies was easy to reach after a quick shower. 

We all jumped in the vehicles and were excited because of the wealth of animals we had seen the night before. The sunrise by the river bank was beautiful, but it slowly dawned on us – no pun intended – that the Matetsi animals are late risers. We didn’t see a whole lot initially, but as it is often the case on these drives, all is forgotten when you hear a lion roar and see their footprints in the sand. 

We slowly honed in on two lions that Nick spotted after about 10 min. of searching. A young male and his sister decided to camp out in the shadows to take a rest, and they let us watch them for a while before we headed back to camp and the delicious breakfast table. The staff whipped up delicious eggs and for some, lunch quickly became something to skip.

The afternoon drive was better than the morning drive. The late sun and slightly cooler afternoon temperatures seemed to energize the game. Zebra, American wild cat, warthog and even a leopard was added to the list of game we were lucky to see. 

Dinner was wrapped up with a celebration of John’s birthday. Adriana and Chloe kicked is off with a wonderful song. The staff took over and gave quite the performance celebrating even the cake…. “Johnnie Cake”. And John of course.

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From Namibia to Zimbabwe

It was time to bid farewell to Namibia and the early morning was spent packing. We left the camp shortly after breakfast as our departure time had been moved up. Once at the airstrip we waited for the third plane – a smaller Cessna 210 – that had been delayed taking off from Windhoek. John and Nick sardined themselves into the Cessna. The rest of the group got split between a Kodiak and the trusted Cessna Caravan. 

It turned out to be quite a challenge to find the pilots of the plane taking us from Windhoek to Victoria Falls Airport, but a few (missed) phone calls later we all got united. Luggage was also a challenge as was finding the VAT Refund location but after about a hour we were all onboard the Jetstream 41 and well underway. 

The crew were great and offered to circle the falls and those sitting on the right side got a premium view of the one of the world’s natural wonders. 

We zipped through the airport as much as that was possible when visas were purchased on the spot. The AndBeyond crew were waiting outside with two minibuses and a truck for our 23 suitcases. We were all excited to have most of the travel behind us and any remaining thoughts of waiting in line were forgotten when we had to stop for a large heard of elephant and later a beautiful male lion soaking up the sun. Both were roaming outside any kind of park – welcome to Zimbabwe!

The Matetsi River Camp turned out to be even more beautiful in real life. The staff gave us a very warm (dancing) welcome. After initial hellos a group of 11 set out for an impromptu game drive although it had already started getting dark. Journeys of giraffes, heards of elephants, impala and even an hyena were among the things we spotted. So good to be back on game drives!

We went back to our room after a quick dinner and spent a bit of time negotiating with decent-seized spiders. Most met our demands of either leaving the cabins or staying hidden.

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A Night Sky Like No Other

We had been warned of colder temperatures and wind and some of us woke up in the middle of the night as the increasingly louder sounds announced the weather’s arrival. 

Breakfast was served at 8:00. We met at the vehicles afterward and set out to find whatever wildlife the area had to offer – obviously with the usual request to see giraffes. Up until then, we had seen oryx, jackal, ostrich, and springbok. Fast forward a few hours, and you could add giraffe (yay!) and zebra to the list. 

The winds were blistering cold and two of the three vehicles got stuck in sand storms on the way back. One car, therefore, came back much earlier, and John, Nick, David, and Isabella left to race ATVs in the sand dunes. So much fun! Isabella, unfortunately, hit a sand dune at high speed and got thrown off the bike, but was ready to continue once she got the sand out of her helmet. Over the course of the afternoon, two more groups went, and only the very little once were left disappointed. 

The evening started with a lecture by the local staff members who made sure we were all up to speed on Namibia – both past and current. Last stop before dinner was a trip to the observatory to make sure all got a chance to see the moon, Saturn, and Jupiter.