Last night in Africa

The morning drive on July 5 gave sight to a beautiful rhino. We have found such respect for this animal over the years, and feel incredibly sad that to this day it is being hunted for its horn. On average 1.5 rhinos are killed a day, and it’s a constant game of cat and mouse to try to secure them from poachers. What seems to be most effective is to move them to hard to reach areas, which are far away from Kruger. With Mozambique so close to Kruger, these animals are high on the danger list and several are gone already. It’s a complex problem and there are high sums of money driving the risk the poachers take.

Most of what we saw on the morning and afternoon drive were things we had already been lucky to encounter, but we did come across a pack of five lions including an eight-months old cub. They were very lazy and were enjoying dozing off in the sun. We let them sleep before their yawns became contagious.

Some of the downtime was used to teach our ranger about the word “dish”. It was very successful and we worry about the next group he is taking out, as he is likely to say “there’s some dish over there” or “good dish” when leaving a great viewing spot. We know… it would take a lot of time to explain and it’s a terrible inside joke started by John.

During the afternoon drive the kids went to the local school and did art projects, but later joined everyone else for sundowner in their own vehicle. John had brought a bit of lighting equipment from California and shot family portraits in the sunset. Maybe the Christmas card photo is already secured…? If the pictures don’t turn out alright, it’s certainly not because of the setting.

We tried to forget that it was our last night together – and at this beautiful location. Some also tried to forget that we had not seen the elusive leopard despite setting out to find one, often crossing long distances. It therefore almost felt ironic that a leopard was spotted close to camp in the early evening. We all drove straight home hoping to get a glimpse. All got to see it and could not believe how big of a fellow he was. At the time we saw it, the sky was pitch black, but Mr. leopard didn’t seem to mind that the tracker used a flashlight to light up the grassy area where it was resting. It was great to see leopard for more than the one second some of the group got to see in Zimbabwe.

Dinner took place outside and we enjoyed having the rangers join us. It happens at some lodges, and it’s nice to relax with them and talk about something other than wildlife and nature.  During dinner Sarah, Olivia and Chris got up to thank Adrian and Penny for their incredible generosity – obviously on behalf of all of us. The staff surprised them with birthday cakes – one each – accompanied by the local singing and dancing around the open fire pit. As usual the dancers in the family couldn’t resist joining and tried to follow both steps and words.

Game Drives in Zimbabwe

Hoping to see a bit more game in the morning, one vehicle set out for the southern part of the AndBeyond concession. No joy – the animals hid well and the favorite sighting ending up being that of a baby zebra and having morning coffee on a hill overlook the area that previously were the grounds of the AndBeyond lodge. 

After breakfast John, Olivia, Chris, Kara, Sandy, David, Sarah, Robert, Adriana and Penny went on the Zambezi river in what’s is known as Canadian canoes. Two-seaters with an extra seat for the guy paddling. Such a nice way to experience the natural border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. They spotted a few crocodiles and a water monitor lizard that decided to jump from its branch and back in the water only a few feet away from Sarah’s canoe. 

The afternoon was spent relaxing. We met at 3:30 to enjoy tea and left at 4:00 for the pontoon boats that would take us all up and down the river. We split into two groups – 10 on each boat – and started slowly drifting. Luckily away from the Victoria Falls. We were very lucky that a heard of elephants got thirsty and came down to the river bank to consume about a 100 liter of water each. A tiny baby elephant stole the highlight but any elephant is worth watching in its natural habitat. Even the skittish ones that sometimes made sure we knew who was the rightful habitant of the area. The river cruise ended with the sighting of one – maybe two – hippos, although they left most of their good looks under water.

Dinner was served in the wine cellar at the lodge. A perfect combination of wine, comfortable seating and even exhibits of old toys. The kids were entertained in the upstairs TV room and watched Disney Channel while consuming burgers.

Zip-lining and Cheese

Busses departed One&Only at 9:00 in the morning. Five people headed for the wine country for wine, cheese and chocolate tastings while the other 11 had chosen zip lining as the activity for the day. 

About half of the zip lining group had already tried speeding across valleys and forest on a thin metal wire. Some in Hawaii, some in Costa Rica. The rest was not quite sure what to expect, but after the first ride all felt comfortable and couldn’t wait for more. There was a total of 13 legs and it took almost three hours from start until we were at the pickup spot for the 4×4 to take us back to camp.

The scenery was amazing and a big part of us enjoying every minute. 

Both busses were back at the hotel at 5:30 and we walked in just as Chris and Kara arrived from Santa Barbara. Despite a delayed start from Los Angeles they had found time to tour Dubai with the same guide as the rest of the family, and cruised around the city until 2:00 in the morning. 

Dinner was enjoyed at Gibson Burgers. Lively, hopping, loud and fairly expensive but the casual meal hit the spot and the walk back to the hotel made sure at least some of the calories stayed behind in Cape Town.

Family Summer Trip ’17 – Leaving Home

We’re writing this having just crossed over the border between Yemen to Somalia. Emirates is taking good care of us, and some of the family members are enjoying the possibility to spread out in a place that isn’t full.

A total of 16 of us left San Francisco airport yesterday and landed in Dubai Tuesday evening. The 15 hours of planned flight time seemed very long prior to taking off, but once underway none of us found the flight excessively long. That’s likely to change on the way back…
 
The final four family members – completing the list of the 20 of us going this time around – Chris, Kara, Chloe, and Colton are leaving Los Angeles Wednesday evening and will join us in Cape Town Friday at dinner time.  As always it’s exciting to see how much trouble we run into with the weight of our luggage and size of our suitcases. Three weeks is a long time to pack for, and there’s heavy camera gear onboard as well. This obviously is more of an issue on the smaller planes that will take us to the three camps we’re visiting. 

For now, we’re onboard a Boeing 777 after we enjoyed the quietness of the Airbus 380 yesterday.  Emirates has been great and just celebrated Robert who got to celebrate this birthday in the air.  Just this last week Emirates changed their policy on free wi-fi, but nobody seems to mind too much and might even be enjoying a bit of time disconnected from the grid. 

We’ll be back with updates underway and post as wireless coverage permits.

Our 2017 Schedule
June 19 – Depart SFO
June 20 – Dubai
June 21 – Arrival in Cape Town
June 22 – Cape Town
June 23- Cape Town
June 24 – Depart Cape Town / Arrival at Sossusvlei, Namibia
June 25 – Sossusvlei, Namibia
June 26 – Sossusvlei, Namibia
June 27 – Depart for Matetse, Zimbabwe
June 28 – Matetse, Zimbabwe
June 29 – Matetse, Zimbabwe
June 30 – Matetse, Zimbabwe
July 1 — Matetse, Zimbabwe
July 2 — Matetse, Zimbabwe
July 3 – Depart for Singita, South Africa
July 4 – Singita, South Africa
July 5 – Singita, South Africa
July 6 – Depart Singita for Johannesburg and California
July 7 – Back home