From Zimbabwe to South Africa via Zambia

David, Olivia, and John decided to leave the packing until later and left at 6:15 a.m. to see the Zimbabwean sunrise one last time. Few things compare to seeing that big African orange sun come over a hill ridge bringing a clean slate and a promise of a great day. Truly worth the ride in the nippy morning air.

Breakfast and packing was done by 9:00 and we departed Matetsi River Lodge for the last time. There were many people to hug and whom to say “See you next time”. The staff really was wonderful, and it was a privilege to stay at the Lodge and be so well taken care of. Maybe the staff felt the same way – some ran alongside our bus as we left, and every time we thought we’d left the staff behind, they’d pop up from somewhere else bringing a smile to our lips.

The transfer from Matetsi was fairly smooth all things considered, but we did have to unload all our luggage and change bus on the Zimbabwe/Zambia border. The only reason we had to cross the border into Zambia, was to catch a commercial flight to Kruger National Park. The Zambia border control still insisted on selling us visas despite the fact that we would be gone less than a couple of hours later. Cost: $750. Cash only… Nick wondered if we could pay with one of the 50 Billion Dollar(!) bills that street sellers were trying to sell to us and if the immigration office would have change for 50 Billion dollars…

We arrived well in time for our South African Airways flight from Livingstone International Airport. The kids devoured what could be ordered from the concession stand – the chicken sandwich was declared the winner of all things ordered. John and Olivia tried to find a lounge where complimentary drink could be had. This turned out to be a bit of a challenge, but eventually it was found, very well-hidden behind four completely empty and rather large lounge rooms. They stocked up on refreshments and for the second time the Priority Pass membership equaled free soft drinks and Wi-Fi.

It was critical that we left Livingstone Airport on time so that we would arrive at Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport no later than 3:45. The is a strict rule in Kruger National Park, that cars cannot be on the road after 6:00 p.m., so counting backwards we would have to leave Mpumalanga by 4:00 p.m. given that the last flight was one hour long followed by a drive of similar duration. It all worked out perfectly and the many combined hours spent worrying where we would sleep if we got stuck in Nelspruit, turned out to be wasted – luckily so.

The drive from Kruger Airport to the Singita Lodge revealed many different animal species and a beautiful sunset. But arriving at the Singita Lebombo Lodge was something that we will probably never forget. Walking into the reception area was amazing with its stunning architecture and views of the nearby mountains, river and rooms. The lit pool looked very tempting and in general these lodges take such a beautiful presence at night with the way they incorporate light into the overall presence- often using candles, lanterns and open fire. We were all taken back by the beauty of the place and stood for a moment just to enjoy and appreciate just how lucky we were to call this place home for the next three nights.

After seeing our beautiful rooms, it was time to sit down for dinner. The kids with their saved-up energy were served in the entertainment room, and the teens got their own table. As it always happens on safari trips we’ve been fed delicious food at the lodges, but once the taste buds sprang into action, many of us agreed that this was the very best meal we had had on our trip. The open kitchen was a nice addition, allowing us to watch the chefs prepare the meals. The wine selection did not disappoint and the bartender, John, whipped up tasty drinks for those in the mood for an aperitif. All-in-all this was an incredible start and we went to bed excited of what the areas would look like at sunrise.

Johnnie Cake

For most of us coffee was served with a wake-up call at 6:00 a.m. The rooms had a built-in butler’s closet so the tray with coffee and crunchies was easy to reach after a quick shower. 

We all jumped in the vehicles and were excited because of the wealth of animals we had seen the night before. The sunrise by the river bank was beautiful, but it slowly dawned on us – no pun intended – that the Matetsi animals are late risers. We didn’t see a whole lot initially, but as it is often the case on these drives, all is forgotten when you hear a lion roar and see their footprints in the sand. 

We slowly honed in on two lions that Nick spotted after about 10 min. of searching. A young male and his sister decided to camp out in the shadows to take a rest, and they let us watch them for a while before we headed back to camp and the delicious breakfast table. The staff whipped up delicious eggs and for some, lunch quickly became something to skip.

The afternoon drive was better than the morning drive. The late sun and slightly cooler afternoon temperatures seemed to energize the game. Zebra, American wild cat, warthog and even a leopard was added to the list of game we were lucky to see. 

Dinner was wrapped up with a celebration of John’s birthday. Adriana and Chloe kicked is off with a wonderful song. The staff took over and gave quite the performance celebrating even the cake…. “Johnnie Cake”. And John of course.

From Namibia to Zimbabwe

It was time to bid farewell to Namibia and the early morning was spent packing. We left the camp shortly after breakfast as our departure time had been moved up. Once at the airstrip we waited for the third plane – a smaller Cessna 210 – that had been delayed taking off from Windhoek. John and Nick sardined themselves into the Cessna. The rest of the group got split between a Kodiak and the trusted Cessna Caravan. 

It turned out to be quite a challenge to find the pilots of the plane taking us from Windhoek to Victoria Falls Airport, but a few (missed) phone calls later we all got united. Luggage was also a challenge as was finding the VAT Refund location but after about a hour we were all onboard the Jetstream 41 and well underway. 

The crew were great and offered to circle the falls and those sitting on the right side got a premium view of the one of the world’s natural wonders. 

We zipped through the airport as much as that was possible when visas were purchased on the spot. The AndBeyond crew were waiting outside with two minibuses and a truck for our 23 suitcases. We were all excited to have most of the travel behind us and any remaining thoughts of waiting in line were forgotten when we had to stop for a large heard of elephant and later a beautiful male lion soaking up the sun. Both were roaming outside any kind of park – welcome to Zimbabwe!

The Matetsi River Camp turned out to be even more beautiful in real life. The staff gave us a very warm (dancing) welcome. After initial hellos a group of 11 set out for an impromptu game drive although it had already started getting dark. Journeys of giraffes, heards of elephants, impala and even an hyena were among the things we spotted. So good to be back on game drives!

We went back to our room after a quick dinner and spent a bit of time negotiating with decent-seized spiders. Most met our demands of either leaving the cabins or staying hidden.

A Night Sky Like No Other

We had been warned of colder temperatures and wind and some of us woke up in the middle of the night as the increasingly louder sounds announced the weather’s arrival. 

Breakfast was served at 8:00. We met at the vehicles afterward and set out to find whatever wildlife the area had to offer – obviously with the usual request to see giraffes. Up until then, we had seen oryx, jackal, ostrich, and springbok. Fast forward a few hours, and you could add giraffe (yay!) and zebra to the list. 

The winds were blistering cold and two of the three vehicles got stuck in sand storms on the way back. One car, therefore, came back much earlier, and John, Nick, David, and Isabella left to race ATVs in the sand dunes. So much fun! Isabella, unfortunately, hit a sand dune at high speed and got thrown off the bike, but was ready to continue once she got the sand out of her helmet. Over the course of the afternoon, two more groups went, and only the very little once were left disappointed. 

The evening started with a lecture by the local staff members who made sure we were all up to speed on Namibia – both past and current. Last stop before dinner was a trip to the observatory to make sure all got a chance to see the moon, Saturn, and Jupiter.